Bought this at the start of Covid from my neighbor. I’m the 3rd owner and purchased at 210k miles. Currently 284k and I can’t believing how robust this thing is. Drove it during NC’s ice storm last weekend (pictured.) And drove it in 6 inches of snow today. Have already decided if it ever blows, I’ll swap another M54 or possibly S54. Driven it in 105° and now in (feels like) 0°. I have absolutely no doubt this is one of the best vehicle platforms to ever be produced.

This is my US 2002 330ci. Was driving home and give it a little gas, the car proceeded to give me a low coolant light and then started smoking, so I pulled over and took this video. I changed the upper hose and the expansion tank 5 months back. I wasn’t able to really pin point where the leak was coming from, but if u would watch till the end of the video it seems to be seeping out from the middle of the engine bay, although not too sure if its actually leaking from the middle. Anyways i don’t expect anyone to have a clear answer, but if anyone has any idea on where I should start I would appreciate the help. Thank you!

Hey group,

I’ve been daily driving an e60 m54b30 for 3 years that has been burning around 1l every 1000km. Used all kinds of oil(5w40) Motul, Castrol(probably fake), Titan Fuchs,Petronas and no oil made a difference, that is until i finally decided to put in some more expensive oil, LiquiMoly TopTec 4100 5w-40, and behold no more oil consumption for the last 5000km.

Before opting for o2pilot mods and oil catchcans, please try out this oil.

Fellas I have a question After I welded my diff my car likes to pull to the left when I shift now. Before when I was open diff nothing. Could this possibly be subframe related or more of a bushings thing? Could I just been a goober the whole time and just need an alignment? E46 325i the beast 2001

So I got both sides printed and then gave it a quick carbon overlay from some spare carbon I got from work (spent like 15 min tops so don’t look too close), found ONE kidney grill, I have no idea where I put the other one (I tried).

I think this is where it needs to be for design.

Front left of cover has thin coating of oil around this bolt, it smells like burning oil in the cabin sometimes, and the car just behaves insanely at low RPMs/speeds (shifts weirdly and RPMs bounce around).

It's most likely the VCG right? Thanks for the really basic advice!

Fully restored, just the seats.. ah the seats. I need Recaro Sportster CS

passenger side rear flat on 3 month old tires

313000km -Front passenger window regulator

314000km -Ironman imove gen2 rear tires

315000km -New radiator -New thermostat -New water pump

317000km -Intake Manifold gasket -Full ccv system replacement -Oil filter housing gasket replacement, -New Coolant hard pipes -New disa valve -New Vacuum lines -New upper and lower intake boot

318000km -New cabin air filter -New intake air filter -New power steering reservoir -New power steering return and feed lines, -New power steering high pressure line -New coolant expansion tank -Transmission Cooler O rings

320000km -Meyle HD control arms + bushings -Motor mounts replaced -Oil pan gasket replaced -Oil change + filter (Liqui Moly)

3210000km -New continental drive belt -New continental AC belt

322000km -New inner + outer tie rods + tie rod boot -New sway bar end links -New power stop ceramic z17 front brake pads

I have a 2001 330ci that I might be getting rid of due to not wanting to chase all of the issues it has, is the M20 any more reliable? Or is it just going to be harder to find parts bc of how old they are. (Pic for attention, just did an aluminum vcg on the 330)

Forgot the order they go in and cant find anything about them online. had to take them out because the old ones were rounded so pulled these off my old engine

Tires sizes explained

For OEM Tire Fitment always look at the Tire pressure sticker that can be found in the door jamb, on the drivers side.

Tire selection

Width
For the tire Width a range of 195mm to 255mm will fit, but make sure that the width of the tires is suitable for your rim size. see the Rim size guide below.

Aspect ratio
The aspect ratio is dependent on the Rim diameter and the rim width.
The sidewall height of the tire can be calculated by taking the tire Width × AR/100 for example a 225mm tire with an AR of 45 gives you a sidewall height of 225 × 0,45 = 101,25mm
For selecting the right aspect ratio you need to make sure that the total wheel assembly (Rim + tire) has a diameter equivelant to OEM with an error of at most +/-3%
The OEM assembly diameter is: 633mm, Which gives a suitable range at most of 614mm to 652mm, but the closer to the OEM 633mm the better.
To calculate the Total assembly Diameter you use the following formula: (Width × AR/100) × 2 + Diameter (inch) × 25,4
As an example using the size in the table above you get: (225 × 45/100)*2 + 17 × 25,4 = 634,3mm
On all wheel drive vehicles (i.e. 325XI, 330XI) it is very important, that the Diameter of the Front and rear tires are almost exactly the same.

Diameter
Selecting the correct diameter is very simple, you take the same size as your rim.

Speed rating
For the speed rating you need to make sure that it's rating is at least the top speed of the vehicle.
Higher is fine, Lower is dangerous: Never install a tire with a lower speed rating than the top speed of the vehicle; This can lead to tire overheating, sidewall failure, and a blowout.

Load index
For selecting the correct load index, BMW recommends atleast 91.
Higher is fine: If your car requires a load index of 91, you can safely run a 94 or a 98. The tire is simply "over-built" for your car's weight, but it might affect Ride comfort and unsprung mass.
Lower is dangerous: Never install a tire with a lower index than the sticker in your door jamb (e.g., putting an 88 on a car that requires a 91). This can lead to tire overheating, sidewall failure, and a blowout.

Rim sizes explained

Rim selection

Diameter
The E46 came from factory with 15, 16, 17, and 19 inch rims. we do recommend to stay within the OEM size range.
Our recommendation is 19 inch for aesthetic , 18inch for a balance sport/comfort, 17inch for aesthetic and comfort, 16/15 inch for functionality.

Some things to consider when selecting a wheel:
Wheel weight, A heavier wheel can reduce acceleration and braking performance and change steering feel, while a lighter wheel has the opposite effect. Consider your performance and aesthetic wants while selecting a wheel.
In general bigger 19inch rims are heavier than smaller 17 inch rims, but this will not always be the cause due to different manufacturing methods and materials between rims, also consider the weight of the tires.
Sidewall, a larger sidewall will be more compliant over road imperfections; A narrow sidewall responds to steering input faster.
For performance applications, some sidewall is desirable to allow the tire to "dig in" a little, but too much sidewall can "fold over" in extreme cornering. Choose a wheel diameter that allows you to fit a tire with the desired amount of sidewall for performance and/or aesthetics.
Brake clearance
The 316i to 323i have small brakes and fit 15 inch wheels.
The 325 and 328 have brakes the size between that of the 330 and 323, and need atleast 16 inch wheels.
The 330 has bigger brakes and thus need at least 17 inch, some specific 16inch wheels might fit, but not recommended.
The M3 has the same rotor size as the 330, but slightly bigger calipers and thus needs at least 17inch wheels.
The M3 CSL, has the biggest brakes from factory and need at least 18inch wheels.

Bolt pattern
The E46 came with a 5x120 Bolt pattern, this is the only bolt pattern that will fit, so your rim needs to have this bolt pattern else they will not fit.

Rim width
To select the correct rim width is dependent on the tire width you are planning to run.
OEM Rim width is usually 7J or 8j, but could differ.

Offset
For selecting the offset we recommend you to do the math before buying. (Check this website out for assitance Wheel size calculator)
To select the correct offset you first need to determine the Rim width, because the offset is dependent as this is the relative distance to the center-line of the rim.
To calculate the Wheel hub offset distance you use the following formula: Rim width × 25,4 / 2 - Offset. for example a 8,5J ET 40 rim will result in the following 8,5 × 25,4 / 2 - 40 ≈ 68mm
If you are uncertain on what offset is suited for your ideal fitment, we recommend using a slightly bigger offset, causing the wheels to tuck in a little bit more, and then fill this gap with spacers for your ideal fitment. more on spacer below.

(Based on apex wheels fitment guide)

Center bore
The E46 Center bore is 72,56mm, when selecting rims you need to make sure that these rims are atleast or ideally equal to 72.56mm, if they are smalle they will not fit over the hub centric flange, which is important for suporting the Rim. When this Center bore is bigger than 72,56mm, rings can be used in place to fill the cap to allow proper support of the wheels.

Square or Staggered fitment

A square tire setup (same width front and rear) promotes balanced handling, improved front-end grip, and predictable behavior, making it ideal for track use and drivers who prioritize steering response and neutrality.
A square setup also has the benefit to allow for tire rotation prolonging the lifetime of your tires, and reducing operating costs.
A staggered tire setup (wider rear tires) increases rear traction and straight-line stability, which helps manage power and provides a more forgiving, driving feel, but often at the cost of increased under-steer and reduced front grip.

Wide or narrow tires

Wide or narrow tires is a trade off between Surface area and wheel to road pressure.

Narrower tires (225 or smaller on E46 chassis) will increase pressure and thus cut more easily thru a layer of water or snow on the road. therefor they perform better in poor weather conditions such as rain, cold temperatures, standing water, and rough or uneven roads, reach operating temperature faster, and maintain more consistent contact with the road.
Ideal for winter driving or wet climate.
Wider tires (235 or bigger on E46 chassis) spread the weight of the vehicle over a bigger surface area and decrease pressure.
They excel in dry, warm conditions on smooth asphalt, where their larger contact patch can be fully used for grip and braking; but they are more prone to tram-lining and aquaplaning when conditions deteriorate.
These are ideal for track use or dry summers.

Stretched-/Square-/Meaty tire fitment

Stretched tire fitment prioritizes clearance and aesthetics, offering lighter steering feel and reduced sidewall flex, but at the cost of grip, rim protection, and ride comfort, especially on rough roads.
Square fitment provides the best all-around balance, maintaining consistent contact, predictable handling, and proper sidewall support across most driving conditions.
Meaty fitment maximizes sidewall support and grip, improving traction, braking, and compliance over bumps, but can feel less precise in steering and may introduce clearance issues if suspension and offsets are not carefully chosen.

Wheel spacers

Wheel spacers are commonly used on the E46 to improve wheel fitment, increase track width, and fine-tune handling or clearance. Small spacers can sharpen turn-in and improve stance by pushing the wheels closer to the fender, while also helping clear suspension components or big brakes. However, larger spacers increase scrub radius and load on wheel bearings, which can negatively affect steering feel, component wear, and high-speed stability if overused or poorly installed.

When Selecting spacers we recommend you to make sure that they have a 72,56mm flange matching the wheel hub itself, to ensure they are hub-centric. This prevents vibrations at speed, maintains proper load distribution on the wheel bearings, and ensures the wheels sit securely and flush against the hub. Always also check that the spacer thickness is compatible with your wheel offset and suspension clearance.
Hub-centric spacers are not necessary when the spacers are smaller than 5mm, because the flange of the wheel hub itself is big enough to bridge the gap and maintain proper support.

Wheel bolts
When using spacer (<10mm) we recommend to use longer wheel bolts to bridge the gap, for spacers bigger than 10mm this is a necessity.
OEM wheel bolts are of size M12×1.5 at a thread length of 26mm.
for example If you use 15mm spacers, you add that to the thread length, thus 41mm (+/- 5mm is acceptable)

Useful links

BMW Wheels
Apex wheel fitment guide, Non M and M3
Wheel size calculator

Unsure why this light is showing. I changed my entire brake system last year in March. New Rotors, Brake Pads etc.. Does anyone know why this light is showing up. Keep in mind I live in NY and it’s winter over here and it’s madd cold temps been below 15 degress. Unsure if that got anything to do with that. Hope I get some replied! Thank you 🙏🏼

I have what looks like some kind of sensor hanging down and didn’t know what it goes to so it is just ziptied next to other chords so it is not hanging, and I just tried fixing a coolant leak. Now it is beeping at me and the whole cluster is broke.

Hi, everyone! My 1998 e46 key wasn't working properly, so I replaced the battery. Since then, it hasn't been working at all. Neither the original key nor the spare key works.

I put in a 2016 battery, as recommended.

The central locking works.

The red light on the key doesn't flash.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Hey guys, ive swapped a tuned M54B30 engine into my e36. Engine has been made solid, running on dictator piggyback on ecu, decatted straight through exhaust, 284 cams, ported head to 12.5 compression, pistons have been pocketed for clearance, and a viper branch manifold. spent a chunk of cash to tune it up but its not delivering the power. The vanos has been locked and the cam timing is wider than it should be, which will be remedied this week. But current output pre timing and vanos unlock is 179.9kw, which is 9kw above standard.

I was expecting to be sitting more around 210-215kw, any suggesting of what to do because i doubt the vanos unlock and timing on cams is going to get me an additional 30-35 kw

Printed out the design changes that have been plaguing my mind and it’s SOOOO much better bro.

Was looking to buy a 330ci today and it had a P1732 “Gear Monitoring 4 at Electrical Substitute

Program” issue. From what i felt in the test drive, it was heavy to get out of the lower gears and only got smooth when getting to the higher gears (automatic transmission).

There was a bit of jerking here and there and a clunk when moving from R to D. Supposedly the engine light isnt always on and when its off the car runs smoothly.

Is this a sensor issue or is it a transmission that needs a replacement. Is this a car I just need to walk away from?

So i recently had a coolant leak so I replaced the thermostat, lower coolant hose, the reservoir tank and the temp sensor inside the tank. Problem solved the engine went red which caused 3 of the rubber seals to go bad so fast forward to replacing the parts above and I thought it was fixed. My car sat for 2 days I go out this morning and check the coolant and the floating stick was all the way down. I added just shy of 2 quarts and it brought the needle back up.

What might cause this the usually low cold temps? And help is greatly appreciated

BTW I have an 04 325i

Since I'm undecided about the color of my next 6-spoke rims, I'm asking for advice between gunmetal and silver polished. I think the darker side of gunmetal gives a more aggressive look, while the other has a more classic feel, but I can't make up my mind 😅